All nursery stock should be planted as soon as possible after you have purchased it. If this is not possible, plants can be kept for a few days, but keep them in a shaded location, protected from winds, and keep the soil moist. Container grown plant material can be planted at any time, as long as the soil is free of frost.

Choosing the Site
It is extremely important that you choose your new tree or shrub wisely. Look around the location you want to plant it. How much sun/shade will the area receive? How is the soil moisture at the site? Will you be able to access water nearby? Is it near or under power lines? Are there other trees or buildings near it? Select a tree or shrub with an ultimate height and width that will fit into your site. (Orillia Power suggests that within 6m (20’) of power lines, only shrubs or trees that grow no higher than 7m (23’) should be planted.) Check with Ego’s staff if you have any questions about suitability of a plant for a particular site.

When digging a hole you must know the location of any underground utilities. Call Ontario One Call at 1-800-400-2255 to locate any buried lines or pipes free of charge. Check their website before making the call to be ready to answer their questions: www.on1call.com. Better safe than sorry!

Digging the Hole
Dig the hole 2-3 times as wide as and 1-2 inches shallower than the root ball. Do dig deeper or the plant will be too deep once the disturbed soil settles. Planting too deep can choke, and eventually kill a newly planted tree.

Put the soil from the hole into your wheelbarrow or onto a canvas sheet. Most likely, the soil you have removed will require amending. Mix in moistened peat moss, composted manure, or composted vegetable matter into the original soil (2 parts soil to 1 part peat and/or compost). Alternatively you could use a 3in1 soil mixture which has peat and compost already mixed at the correct ratio. Use 1 part 3in1 to 2 parts original soil. Too much non-native soil will actually prevent root growth so amend the original soil with no
more than 1/3 new soil.

Roughen the sides and bottom of you planting howl with a pick or shovel so that root tips can penetrate the native soil. Smooth walls are like cement and will prevent roots from growing out.

Test the hole by placing the plant, still in the burlap or container, into the hole. Rotate the plant in the hole, stand back and look to see how you like it ant that it stands straight up. Also check that the top of the root ball (not the pot) will be 1-2” HIGHER than the surrounding soil level.

Planting Balled & Burlapped Plants
With the plant in the hole, remove any twine away from the top of the root ball; especially from around the trunk! Peel back about 1/3rd of the top of the burlap to expose the top layer of roots. Leave the rest of the burlap on the plant and in the hole as it will rot quickly.

Plastic Potted Plants
Be gentle but firm when removing the container. Make sure to protect the foliage, lat the tree or shrub on its side with the container end near the planting hole. Hit the bottom and sides of the container until the root ball is loosened and the pot slides off. Look at the roots. If any roots are growing in a circle around the ball, gently but firmly separate them so they point outward. If the roots are so tight that there is no soil showing on the sides, cut the root ball vertically in 3 places 1” deep. This will stimulate the plant to make new roots from the cut areas.

Fibre Pots
Fibre containers are made of recycled newspapers and will decompose after their rims are removed. Put the plant directly in the hole, cut off the top rim, and make 3 slits down the side of the pot. Do not remove the bottom.

Check again that the top of the root ball is 1-2” above the normal soil level surrounding the hole.

Refill the hole with the amended soil watering as you go to help the soil settle. Don’t pack the soil in too hard. Water thoroughly.

Mulch the soil around the tree with 2-3” of any good mulch. Keep the mulch 2-3” from the trunk of the new plant. Use a plastic tree guard to help protect from damage caused by mice and voles.

Staking
Stake all trees over 4” in height and those in areas with strong, persistent winds. Leave the tree staked for 1-2 years and then remove. Make sure all wires and ropes are covered to prevent them from cutting into bark (old rubber hose works well!) The staking is intended to prevent the tree wobbling too much which might break any new roots trying to grow, but not to completely immobilize plants.

Watering
New plantings require deep watering daily for at least 1 week, every other day for next 2 weeks, then about twice a week for the first year. In clay areas, do not water as much. Reduce watering if you’re getting nice soaking rainfalls on a regular basis. You’ll know it’s time to water when the soil 1 inch below the surface (don’t count the mulch) is dry to the touch. Be sure to check before you water as over-watering is just as lethal to a plant as drought. Over-watering causes the leaves to turn yellow and fall off.

Continue the watering routine until mid-fall. Taper off for lower temperatures that result in soil drying out more slowly. Be careful though, and do not allow your new plants to go into winter too dry as they will suffer from dehydration with the much lower humidity of winter.

Generally, it takes al least 2 years to fully establish a new plant, so don’t forget to water it in the 2nd year if you have a particularly dry period.

Fertilizing
Be careful. Never fertilize when the plant is too dry, too hot, or stressed in some way. Transplanting fertilizer should be used according to package directions. Alternatively, bone meal is a safe organic fertilizer that can be applied at planting time.

Fertilizer for regular growth and maintenance should not be used until the 2nd year. For trees and shrubs choose a lownitrogen fertilizer (low first number). Always use manufacturer’s guidelines when applying.

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Planting Perennials & Annuals

Plants should be planted as soon as possible after you have purchased them. If this is not possible, plants can be kept for a few days, but keep them in a shaded location, protected from wind, and keep well watered.

Container grown plant material can be planted any time, as long as the soil is free of frost.

Before you start, make sure the soil in the pot is moist. Planting a dry root ball makes it very difficult to provide sufficient water.

Preparing Your Soil
Thorough soil preparation prior to planting is essential to long term success and will spare you future aggravation and hard work. This is the only opportunity you will have to work the soil completely. Once plants are established, drainage and aeration cannot be substantially corrected without removing the plants.

Most perennials prefer a weed-free, loamy, well-drained soil. Dig in 3 cm (1 in) of composted manure (or other organic matter such as leaf mould, vegetable compost, or peat moss) to a depth of at least 12 cm (5 in) of soil. Adding bone meal or granular fertilizer at this point will help successful plant establishment. Apply according to package directions.

Dry, sandy sols can be improved by adding plenty of organic matter. Dig the area to a depth of at least 20 cm (8 in) with a fork or spade. Heavy clay soils need to be opened by adding plenty of organic matter, along with perlite, coarse sand or grit. A 12-15 cm (5 – 6 in) layer of compost (or other organic matter) and 5 cm (2 in) of grit will greatly improve clay soils for the long haul.

To save yourself years of aggravation, the planting site should be free of weeds. This can be done by hand, chemical herbicides, or by smothering. This is done by covering the weeds with black plastic, or many layers of newspaper weighed down with bricks for a period of 2-3 months.

Planting
With a spade or shovel, dig planting holes slightly larger than the container. Gently remove the pot and tease apart the outside roots if the plant appears root bound. When positioned in the ground, firm soil around the roots. Make sure the root ball surface is at or just slightly below the garden soil surface. After planting, water thoroughly to moisten the roots.

Mulch
There are many benefits to using organic mulches. They help keep the soil cool and moist during hot summer weather, they prevent weeds from becoming established, and as they breakdown they add to the organic matter in the soil. Mulch should be no thicker than 5-7 cm (2-3 in) and it should not cover the crown of the plants (this can cause rot).

Watering
Newly planted plants need to be watered thoroughly immediately after planting. Moisture levels will need to be monitored during the first growing season. You will know it’s time to water when the soil 1 inch below the surface (don’t count the mulch) is dry to the touch. Be sure to check before you water as over-watering is just as lethal to a plant as drought. Over-watered appear wilted, but do not perk up after watering. Long, deep watering helps plants develop deep roots which will help them through periods of drought once established. A light sprinkling of water promotes shallow roots. Established plantings may require supplemental water through dry periods. Water early in the day to allow foliage to dry before dark and help prevent disease outbreaks. Try to avoid watering plant’s foliage; water at the base of the plant.

Fertilizing
Adding fertilizer while doing soil preparation is not a bad idea. It’s an especially nice time to add a slow-release granular fertilizer, or bone meal, as you can work it into the soil where the roots need it. Alternatively you can water in a transplant fertilizer after planting. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Established gardens may benefit from yearly fertilizing in the spring. Stop fertilizing perennials by mid-summer to allow them to harden off properly in preparation for winter.

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Hanging Basket and Patio Planter Care

What are the secrets to success with hanging baskets and containers? Size of container, proper watering, proper feeding.  It’s that simple!

Bigger is better!
It’s simple: a larger pot = more soil for plants.  This is especially important in the summer, when plants typically grow quickly and need lots of water and nutrients.  Don’t be afraid to transplant smaller pots into bigger ones as they grow.  Just ensure adequate drainage in the new pot and use a good quality potting mix.

Water properly 
Water thoroughly every time and wait until the soil is dry before watering again.  Your pots should be checked every day.  If using a hose, make sure to use a watering wand with a soft rain nozzle.  “Power washing” your containers or flooding them out will do your plants no favours, just beat them up!  Watering is best done early in the morning, allowing the foliage to dry before the sun is too intense.  If watering again later in the day, be sure to do it earlier in the evening to ensure adequate drying time before dark.  This will help to prevent foliar diseases.

Feeding well
Containers provide a small space for roots compared to gardens, so be sure to feed your planters well.  Using and balanced slow-release fertilizer helps to ensure fertility throughout the season.  Use a water-soluble fertilizer regularly to give an extra boost to flowering plants.  Generally, a higher “Middle Number” in the NPK ratio is best for flowering baskets.  Fertilize after watering so the soil is already moist, not dry.

Other Maintenance Tips for Beautiful Containers

• Dead head regularly– remove spent blooms
• Trim to keep tidy and promote branching
• Scout for and treat for diseases and insects as soon as possible – products such as Safers 3-in-1 are useful for an array of pests.
• Protect sensitive plants from late frosts and strong winds

Most importantly…. sit back and enjoy!

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